Photographs supplied by Lana Kudriavtseva and Patrick T. King

Above left: Moscow residents Lana Kudriavtseva and Patrick T. King of Chicago Design Ltd., designers, and authors of this article; Above middle and right: Details of Moscow's metro stations

Sure, the recession seems to have affected everyone in one way or another, including Russia, but Moscow remains that brilliant star able to take ones breath away.

Before we begin, let’s get some statistics out of the way...

Located on the Moscow River and home to the Kremlin, which serves as the residence of the president of Russian, Moscow is the capital of Russia. Moscow is the largest city in Europe, and if you include Moscow’s suburbs, it’s the largest urban area in the world. Moscow is the major political, economic, cultural, religious, financial, educational, and transportation center of Russia and also operates on a worldwide basis. With three international and two regional airports, nine railroad terminals, and a very busy metro system, Moscow is certainly a city on the move.

Above top and bottom: White nights in July

In the words of this American I would say Moscow is one of the most strange, miraculous, congested, yet vibrant and beautiful cities in the world. Moscow has a European flair that is punctuated with unforgettably pristine features of traditional old Russia. While the energy of the new millennium and the new Russia is ever present, the nostalgia and romance of Russia will find you and keep you warm.

Travel to Moscow has never been easier as non-stop flights from major American airports are convenient and quite affordable. Spring and autumn are nice times to visit the city, but be sure to remember that you’ll need a visa to go along with your passport. You can get a visa pretty quickly if need be, but it will be pricey. If you are willing to wait a couple of weeks, the cost of the visa will be much lower, so plan ahead! You can apply for your visa online. and I recommend the folks at G3 visa www.g3visas.com (be sure to deal with the Washington DC office (888) 883-8472, since the Russian Embassy is located just down the street). Don't forget to make 4-color copies of your credit cards (front and back), your visa, passport, and airline tickets (if you have paper tickets).

How to Pack
It depends when you go. Pretend you’re from a northern city in America, like New York, Detroit, or Chicago, and you’ll be right at home, weather wise.

What to Pack
Moscow is both a very formal and very casual city. If you plan on dining at places like the Ritz, Four Seasons, or atop the Swissotel, then do us a favor and dress the part. If you plan on site-seeing and people-watching, then dress as you like. Remember, no matter how you dress, you’ll never out-dress a Moskovite.

Above: Swissotel

You’ll land at either Sheremetyevo or Domodedovo airport and will go through passport control. At the airport, you will be given half of the customs declaration form that you filled out on your flight in; don't lose it, keep it in your passport. After you pick up your luggage, exchange only a small amount of money at the airport as you’ll find the exchange rates much better in the city.

Sheremetyevo is the original international airport and it is currently being updated. It has a 24-hour bus service from the airport to Moscow (18 miles) and a new high-speed train that may be in operation by the time this article hits is up online.

Domodedovo is the newest, and still expanding airport that is more visitor-friendly. There is a high-speed Aeroexpress train that travels to and from Moscow and the Domodedovo Airport, and your journey time will be about 40 minutes. There are plenty of taxis available at the airports as well, but before you step inside the car know where you are going and set the price prior to leaving. After that, enjoy your ride to the city! I don’t recommend renting a car and I believe you will agree with me after you spend a few days in the city.

Above: Moscow traffic

Where to Stay
Staying at four- and five-star hotels in Moscow is a very popular thing to do. Do your research beforehand, but familiar brand name hotels are always a safe bet and reservations can typically be made online. 

In the center of Moscow is the Kremlin and Red Square (Beautiful Square), and concentric rings of roadways that radiate out from the center of Moscow. The Golden Ring is nearest to the center, followed by the Garden Ring, and so on. The closer your lodging is to the heart of Moscow, the higher the cost will be. 

Hotels can be pricey in Moscow and if you plan on staying more than five days, look for an apartment to rent. There are several organizations in Moscow that provide such services. For your own personal safety, I suggest that you contact these vendors both online and via telephone, but keep in mind when making calls that there is an 8 to 11 hour difference between the States and Moscow. For example, if it’s 9am in Chicago, it’s 6pm in Moscow. You can use Skype to call Russia, or purchase a phone card at www.1st-usa.com. Surprisingly, it's very inexpensive to call Moscow from the States. If your Russian language skills are not up to par make your connection with an English speaking service. You’ll be pleased to know that English is a popular language in Moscow, but try to learn some common courtesy phrases before you go, as the people there will appreciate your efforts.

Above: Firework Festival near our apartment

Registration
This technicality is left over from Soviet times, and if you stay at a hotel the front desk will register you (be certain they do). If you rent an apartment, be sure to ask about registering as the rental agencies will often do it for you for a small fee.

How to Get Around
Use the Metro! It’s safe, affordable, and the color codes of the metro lines make it extremely easy to travel. Multi metro passes can be purchased so you do not have to pay every time you ride. Simply enter the metro station and look for the cashier's booth, that is marked by the word "KACCA". If you don't speak Russian, hold up the appropriate number of fingers, representing the number of "rides" you want to take. Buy at least a10-trip Metro card. I believe it will cost around 60 rubles for a ticket that is valid for 5 trips.

Above top and bottom: Moscow metro station and detailed metro map

The beauty of the metro stations is not to be missed. If you miss the metro, you’ve missed the "people's palace", and a huge part of Moscow. This entire article could be written about the Moscow metro, with stations like Komsomol'skaya, Kazan'skaya, Belorusskaya, Novoslobodskaya, Kiyv'skaya, Mayakovskaya, Baumannskaya, and Ploschad Revolutsij, wall mosaics, ceiling mosaics, larger than life statues, black, red, and white marble; the list goes on. There are guided and self-guided tours available for Moscow’s underground kingdom. Try to be adventurous and do the self-guided tour; you can find tips for this online.

Outside almost every metro station, there are open-air shops and underground walkways (perehods) which will take you from the street level to the actual metro entrance. You won’t find high-end items here, but you will find phone cards, water, soda, vegetables, and baked goods. Another perk of traveling on the metro is that many have a McDonald’s located near the station; you may not need the high calorie food, but a cup of coffee and a trip to a clean restroom can make McDonald's golden arches a welcome sight.  

ATM machines are everywhere. Remember, you are in a big city, so always stay streetwise, and be aware of your surroundings. Don’t flash your money, keep hold of your zipped purse, have your wallet in your front pants pocket, and your passport and credit cards tucked safely on your person. If someplace does not feel right, then don’t go there. You’re not in Kansas, you’re in Moscow.

Places to Go
There are far too many beautiful and interesting places to visit in a week or two, so we’ll mention some of our favorites...

Above top and bottom: The high-end emporium GUM

First and foremost, would be Red Square. Enter at the northwest arched opening, travel to the far end and you will see the swirling colors of Saint Basil’s domes that are flanked on the right by the red brick towers of the Kremlin and the famed high-end emporium GUM on the left. A couple of blocks to the north is TSUM (pronounced Goom and Tsoom). Both of these are well worth a visit. A coffee or tea at Café’ Tsum (4th floor) is a nice taste of the new Russia. The Metrapol in the grand tradition of Russia is also a great bet. There are several tours of the Kremlin and one of the best is the Kremlin Armory. The entry fee is about $16 and the entrance to the Kremlin is where they sell the tickets.

Above: The entrance to Red Square

I have always enjoyed Vorobevy Gory (Sparrow Hills) as well. It’s a popular place for a romantic meeting and wedding photos. From here, in the distance, is a panoramic view of Moscow, with the Moscow River and site of the Moscow Olympics directly below. Behind you is the magnificent towering MGU (Moscow University). Go to Metro Station: Vorobyovy Gory

Above: Sparrows Ridge

Breathtaking views of Moscow can be enjoyed from either the Ostankino TV Tower or, for a more elegant view, the City Space Bar & Lounge atop the Swissotel Krasnye Holmy. For the nearest Metro use Google maps: Ostankino Moscow or Swissotel Krasnye Holmy Moscow

Above: Ostankino TV Tower

A new and unique addition to the Moscow skyline is the “Picturesque Bridge”. It’s a bold engineering achievement with a restaurant perched high in the arch. For the nearest Metro stations use Google maps: Picturesque Bridge Moscow

Above top and bottom: Picturesque Bridge

Our apartment is located on Frunzenskaya, which runs along the Moscow River. Across the river is Gorky Park, and 80-year old park, named after Maxim Gorky, a famous Russian writer. The park is very large, with many shady trees and wide walkways. It is the perfect place to stroll along the river, especially if you enjoy people-watching. Enter from Kultury Metro. Don’t stay beyond sunset.

Above: Our apartment on the right, Gorky Park on the left

Phone
When calling Russia from the States dial: 011 then 7 (Russian country code) then 495 (Moscow city code) then the seven digit number.

Above: The Kremlin along the river

Here are Four Restaurants That We Suggest

Turandot
Nothing was spared in the decor of the 500-seat Turandot. Rumors put the cost of building Turandot at around $50 million. Turandot is the most extravagant restaurant in Moscow and dinners range from 25 to 55 euros, while appetizers are around 10 to 25 euros. With wine, I would figure to come to about $200 per person. Now is your chance to dress to the 10’s!
Located at 26/5 Tverskoi Bulvar
Phone: 7 (495) 739-0011

Café Pushkin
Here you will step back and experience some of Russia’s glorious and refined history and fine dining. The dishes are prepared according to old traditional recipes and even if you just want to visit and have a soup or salad, instead of a full dinner, we’ve been here several times and have never been disappointed. Wear nice attire.
Located at 26a Tverskoi Bulvar, Moscow
Phone: 7 (495) 739-00-33

Petrovich
Join the party... the Soviet party! Located in a huge cellar, this bar/club/restaurant is filled with Soviet nostalgia. Drink your piva (beer) in old Soviet era mugs and enjoy Russian and Georgian dishes as Soviet pop music serenades you. Petrovich is more casual in dress and in price, and it also claims to be a private club, so call beforehand and you can usually get in. Located near the Chistiye Prudy Metro station 24/3 Myasnitskaya ul. Head into courtyard behind kiosk at 24 Myasnitskaya ul. and look for metal door on the left; it’s a bit hidden.
Phone: 7 (495) 923-0082

Taras Bulba
Okay, so it may not be pure Russian, but it’s close. This is a true Ukrainian theme restaurant, from the furnishing, to the beautiful ethnic dress of the waitresses.There are several Taras Bulba restaurants throughout Moscow that offer a huge selection of delicious Ukrainian cuisine. The vodka and gorilka come chilled with complimentary salo and pickles. The bread is always fresh and the borsch is wonderful. We’ve been here numerous times, and it's always a treat. The menu comes in about a dozen different languages. It’s affordable, it’s casual, and you won’t go away hungry.
Phone: 7 (495) 695-0089

Above: Gorky Park Kultury entrance

Art
Art has always had a special place in Russia. Cities and towns in Russia  always set aside an area for artists housing and/or studios so you can only imagine the many art galleries in Russia’s capital, Moscow. Here are three suggestions:

The State Tretyakov Gallery
For most Americans, Russian art is something of a closed book up until the 20th century when we saw the appearance of giants such as Kandinsky, Chagall and Malevich. The Tretyakov gives you the chance to discover the rich tradition from which these great artists sprang onto the world stage. This gallery has 62 rooms and 100,000 works charting the development of Russian painting from the 10th to the end of the 19th Century.

Main Gallery
Located at 10, Lavrunshkensky Pereulok, Moscow, 119017, Russia
Phone: +7 (495) 951-1362
Metro Stations: Tretyakovskaya or Novokuznetskaya

Central House of Artists
Located on the Moscow river, this large Soviet-era building has four floors of galleries and art shops. This is a great place to look at what Russia's artists are currently doing. Here you may also find some unusual and creative souvenirs, and there is an informal art market that winds its way along the river embankment on the north side of the building complex. If you do purchase artwork be aware of rules for exporting works of art. Artists should supply you with the proper paperwork.
Located at 10/4, Ulitsa Krymsky Val, Moscow, 119049, Russia 
Phone: 7 (495) 951-1362 
Metro Stations: Park Kulturi (then walk across the river) or Oktyabr'skaya

Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts
Originally named after Alexander III, the museum's current name is a bit misleading, as it has nothing to do with the famous Russian poet Pushkin. After 14 years of construction, the museum opened in 1912, and after the Russian capital was moved to Moscow in 1918, the Soviet government decided to transfer thousands of works from St Petersburg's Hermitage Museum to the new capital. These works of art formed the nucleus of the Pushkin museum's collections of western art with more paintings added later on. The artwork here includes top art pieces from Van Gogh, Gaugin, Picasso, Dufrénoy, and Matisse and it wasn’t until 1937 that Pushkin's name was appointed to the museum, to mark the 100 year anniversary of the great poet's death.
Open Tues through Sunday 10am – 7pm
Located at 12 Volkhonka
Metro Station: Kropotkinskaya
Phone: 7 (495) 203-7998

Cathedral of Christ the Saviour
If you go the the Pushkin I suggest that you stop in and enjoy the magnificant Cathedral of Christ the Saviour. This church has an amazing history of construction, demolition, and rebuilding, and it's intentions began in 1812 and did not emerge from its scaffolding until 1860. On December 5th 1931, by order of Stalin's minister Kaganovich, the Cathedral of Christ the Saviour was dynamited and reduced to rubble. Upon the fall of the Soviet Union a replica of extraordinary accuracy was reconstructed and consicrated in August of 2000.

Old Arbat Street
Last, but not least, is a walk down old Arbat Street. First mentioned as early as 1493, Arbat is one of the oldest roads in the city.Once a main route, Old Arbat is now a pedestrian street. Legendary writers of the past may no longer sip their coffee here, but a host of mime artists, soapbox poets, souvenirs, and art stalls mix in front of a backdrop of picturesque old buildings of pastel facades and splashes of bright color. This can have a Bohemian atmosphere, or that of a tourist trap (you can look at it both ways, it’s all in the eye of the beholder). There are plenty of cafes here, and a McDonald’s.

Above: One of the Seven Sisters

Walk to the west end of the Arbat to see the imposing towers of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs Building. One of Stalin’s so called Seven Sisters, the white wedding cake-type buildings.

Above: Karim Rashid and Lana Kudriavtseva

Of all we have mentioned, the most positive thing you will find about Russia is it's people...

Time to leave!
Most flights leave rather early in the morning so give yourself plenty of time to get to the airport and onto your flight. If you choose to go by taxi, reserve one the day before (the cost will be about $50). Be sure to have your Custom Declaration form (you received your half of it upon your arrival) as well as your “registration”. 

Have a good flight… Do svidanija

Written by Lana Kudriavtseva and Patrick T. King

To contact Lana Kudriavtseva and Patrick T. King:
Chicago Design Ltd.
Phone: (7-495) 507-5080
E-mail: info@chicago-design.biz
Visit their company website at: www.chicago-design.biz